6 Takeaways from My Second Trip to Tanzania
Back Where It All Began
By Robyn DeVoe, Explorer X Travel Designer
As I stepped off the plane onto the tarmac at Kilimanjaro International Airport, that familiar humid air woke me straight out of my jetlagged stupor. It felt like I’d found a long-lost friend. I had been here once before, almost 10 years ago exactly, when I was just a newbie to the travel industry. When the opportunity presented itself to return this year, I jumped on it, excited to see what and how things have changed since my last visit. This time, I was ready to gain a deeper understanding of this country’s complexities when it comes to tourism.
Here’s what I took away.
Pole Pole
“A white explorer, eager to reach his destination in the heart of Africa, paid his native bearers extra so that they would walk more quickly. For several days, they did just that. One afternoon, though, they all sat down on the ground, took off the bundles they were carrying, and refused to go on. Regardless of how much money the explorer offered them, they would not move. When he finally asked the reason for their behavior, he received this reply: ‘We’ve been walking so fast that we no longer know what we’re doing. Now we need to wait for our souls to catch up with us.’” - Unknown Author
“Pole pole,” the Swahili term pronounced “poe-lay poe-lay,” is arguably the mantra of Tanzanians. Translated to English, it means “slowly.” It was one of the first phrases I learned and is used often. It speaks to the pace of life here. Even when time was of the essence, and we were running late for our next site inspection, our tour guide’s pace remained unchanged; at a slow saunter, we continued. Remarkably, all was accomplished, still. Even so, I would recommend building extra time into an itinerary, not over-packing it, to allow for this “pole pole” pace from one thing to the next in true Tanzanian fashion. In so doing, you can more relaxedly connect with those you come across along the way on a deeper level.
The Secret of “Low Season”
By the time of my visit in early-mid May, only a few roads were still impassable from the rains of April. It was my previous understanding to avoid this time of year, but I couldn’t have been more misled. Over the course of 10 days, we only experienced a couple of short downpours that moved on quickly. The skies looking across the Tarangire savannah were stunningly dramatic, columns of water moving over the vibrant green plains. The grasses were tall and lush, which made leopard spotting all that more rewarding. The staff and guides were refreshed, excited, and ready to welcome us, some of their first visitors of the season. And we got to drive straight through the center of the Great Migration without the hoards of other vehicles present at other times of the year in the Central Serengeti. It’s when the wildebeest and zebra are still running with their young calves, adorable and fuzzy, gaining strength and agility in preparation for their Mara River crossing as they make their way north in just a few short months.
The experience was similar in Ngorongoro Crater, where the lack of cars, blooming fields of purple and yellow flowers, and crisp blue skies made everything sparkle with life. This is still technically the tail-end of the “long rainy season,” but I was shown that early May could, in fact, be the best time to go if you are looking to avoid crowds, enjoy lower rates, and feast your eyes on the lush scenery. And to be honest, no matter what time of year you go, even if you prioritize the peak “dry season,” always maintain a flexible mindset, as the weather patterns are becoming more unpredictable each year, you never quite know what you’re going to get.
The Roads Less Traveled
On my last visit to Tanzania, I flew in little Cessnas from Park to Park, soaring over the landscape, peering down from a bird's eye view, landing in the next place in no time. On this trip, we drove, covering long distances in our Toyota Land Cruiser, kicking up that “African powder” in our wake. I had previously taken the opinion that domestic flights were always the better option if budget allows, but this experience proved to me that it’s not so black-and-white. In fact, I quite enjoyed the drives. It allowed for extra spontaneity that I didn’t have on my last trip.
This time, we stopped for roadside snacks like roasted corn and bananas, visited local medical clinics and markets, stopped to tow other unlucky vehicles out of mud pits, and greeted gazillions of cheery children along the way. This was also the time to have meaningful conversations with my guide and fellow travelers, the sights bringing up more curiosities. Taking the overland route is a great way to experience local Tanzanian village life in between the major destinations, see the scenery from a different perspective, and get a better feel for the location and distance between places. These drives felt like an activity in and of itself, and could absolutely be a great option for travelers regardless of whether the budget allows for flights or not.
Take a Different Kind of Flight
Speaking of flights and different perspectives – if you have an opportunity to take a hot air balloon flight, I highly recommend it! There is no better way to experience the sunrise in Africa than floating peacefully across the Serengeti plains over herds of water buffalo, hippos, and baboons perched on the treetops. It was a fantastic way to see more wildlife and get closer than we otherwise could. With a competent pilot, the ride is smooth and comfortable, even for the most nervous of passengers. Not to mention all the other components that made the experience exciting besides the flight itself, from learning how to load and unload in the basket, to champagne cheers and hot breakfast in the middle of the bush. This is doable and great fun for all ages and abilities.
Pride, Safety, & Community
As we drove through the town of Karatu, a member of our group remarked how, after visiting many other places in Africa, it was refreshing to see how clean and orderly the Tanzanian people keep their spaces. As I looked around, I, too, made a mental note of where this was evident: The lack of trash and organized chaos of the weekly markets, people out sweeping their porches, and public restrooms that sparkled like the smiles of their attendants.
There is an underlying current of ‘pride’ and ‘care’ that I not only recognized in the cleanliness of the spaces, but in the way people held themselves and interacted with each other. For example, as we strolled through the town of Mto Wa Mbu, our guide explained that the churches we passed were shared among different observers, anyone was welcome, from Christianity to Islam.
Likewise, members of different tribes, 120 in total across Tanzania, from Chaaga to Makonde, live next to each other, in harmony, often speaking their unique tribal languages as well as Swahili. The work that they do often not only benefits their own families but goes back to their community, benefiting their neighbors as well. Complete strangers are greeted with friendliness and respect, calling one another “brother” and “sister” (“kaka” and “dada”). It all started to make sense now, why I only saw gates around some hotel accommodations – not so much for safety, but to suggest boundaries to appease foreigners who may not be used to this.
Land is seen as communal in Tanzania, with everyone welcome to wander, pole pole, from place to place (as the Maasai I met said, “only 2 days walking to Kenya”), knowing they have a kaka or dada in those they meet along the way, no matter their background. Humans are social creatures, and relating with others is a major part of our well-being; the success of the collective “takes a village,” and one of the greatest examples of this is seen in the Tanzanian people.
Ethical Travel in Tanzania
I came on this trip with the intention of gaining a deeper understanding of the current relationship between the people of Tanzania – particularly the Maasai – conservation, impacts on the environment, and tourism. Not a light subject that can be covered fully in this blog, but I’ll give a high-level overview.
You may have heard about the government’s efforts to remove the Maasai from their homelands in order to make space for new National Parks and conservation areas. Learning this was disturbing as someone who claims to promote virtuous tourism here. I wanted the whole story and answers for how we could do better in this industry. So I asked a lot of questions of the Tanzanian people while I was there about how we can ethically promote both conservation and Maasai interests as travel professionals.
I did gain clarity: When feeling conflicted about tourism’s impact on Tanzania, first off, thank yourself for aiming to be a responsible traveler. Secondly, please still visit. While I do not want to undermine the Maasai’s plight, conservation is also a critical component of Tanzania’s success story. The wildlife not only benefits, but they are the ones drawing in tourists which is a major part of the country’s economy, so the people benefit, too.
With that said, on any trip to Tanzania you take, it’s also important to incorporate time with the local tribes like the Maasai, and put your money towards their livelihoods as well. Visit places like Lake Natron, where the people are living in peace with the giraffe and baboon. And while you’re on safari, amidst the increasing numbers of lodges being built, aim to support and stay at the lighter footprint, eco-friendly camps, avoiding the more permanent structures.
Remember: Money talks. And the government and citizens need encouragement to maintain harmony between the people and the environment for generations to come.
—
Asante sana, ashe naleng, thank you, to the people of Tanzania. This place will always have a piece of my heart, and I hope it will have a piece of yours, too.
Check out some of Robyn’s photos from her trip to Tanzania below.
